Airfix Lancaster Build

[Dave_Richardson]

Apparently the cure for yellowing decals is to expose them to strong sunlight for a period of time. never tried it myself but picked up the tip from the Airfix Tribute Forum:

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.o ... asc-20.php

Dave

[ME453]

Thank you Dave, never heard that one before but definitely worth trying...nothing to lose really. Now, where's that sunlight???

[halifax1]

My airbrush is a Harder and Steenbeck Hansa 381 and the compressor a Iwata Sprint Jet. I'll look into costs for you but I'd advise not to go with the very cheap airbrushes because you're unlikely to have the degree of control that you have with the better ones. I see my airbrush cost me £90, what's that about $120? You'll get a very reasonable one for that price.

Masking is usually done with the Tamiya-type stuff John, it comes in various widths, is thinner than normal masking tape (though I do use this as well for larger areas) and is in its own dispenser, as shown in the "tools" pic above. You can chose whether to use matte or gloss paints, I use matte but then give a few coats of Klear (this is actually a floor polish but it's great for applying to models) once the painting is finished and before applying the decals. The shiny surface helps prevent "silvering", that edge often seen around roundels on models for instance, which is air trapped under the decal. Then of course if you finally want a matte finish you spray the model again with a matte spray - I use Tamiya Flat Base and Klear mixed in a 1 : 4 ratio but you'll see all this later!!

Hmmm.... OK up to a point........ but then you (Max) are from Dorset, where the neanderthals play!!

The point about the tape John is that it is "low tack". (Unlike the conventional ones). I have discovered some low tack in a local art emporium which is OK but is thicker than the Tam stuff (which is translucent) and so the "edge" is not quite so tidy!! And as a result the thicker stuff stuff does not comply so well when being persuaded to follow a shape or when going over a 'crevice" - for example a panel line etc.

Also being inventive, I tend to buy the one width of Tam tape and cut it in narrower widths to suit. I think as you go along you will find that "tricks" will occur to you.

Oh dear seem to be hijacking the old boys topic again. Oh dear!!

[ME453]

Also being inventive, I tend to buy the one width of Tam tape and cut it in narrower widths to suit. Oh dear seem to be hijacking the old boys topic again. Oh dear!!

It's strange you know, but I've just looked up "inventive" in my Thesaurus and nowhere does it give "tightfisted, cheap-jack, misery, penurious, stingy or tight-arsed" as alternative meanings. I guess language hasn't evolved that far in Norfolk yet to the extent it has in the rest of the civilised world. Mind you, David's made a career out of being economical with the truth, old habits die hard.

[ME453]

A little progress to show from last night, some work on the cockpit interior and the bomb bay. Since I intend building this model straight from the box I don't intend adding any further detailing to it, nor correcting any mistakes if there are any.





As with many aspects of wartime aircraft, there is much debate about "this colour-scheme is right, that is wrong" etc, and cockpit colours is one such issue. I'm going by the evidence of what I believe to be the most original Lancaster cockpit still in existence and that's DV372 PO-F of 467 squadron preserved in the IWM. The green looks a bit lurid in these pics., it's Xtracylic's Interior Green which I think is pretty accurate.
Max

[ME453]

Tonight's rather tedious task is masking the glass work. All the essentials are in the pic.: a sharp knife blade, Tamiya tape of differing widths and a cocktail stick. The Lanc canopy has slightly raised framework on it, so when I lay a piece of tape over it, I can gently run the point of the cocktail stick around the framing, which then gives me a good edge that I can cut with the point of my knife. Tweezers are handy just to pick up an edge of tape, then pull it carefully away, ensuring that you have cut right into all the corners. You can buy pre-cut masks for many kits but they are usually fairly expensive, often a tenner or more. If you can do it yourself, why not?

[halifax1]

Yes - quite promising. And I find that hard to mask areas - e.g. those tat are very small in area or curved, convex etc. can be effectively masked using copydex carefully brushed on. It is less expensive that the proprietary "maskol" etc. It is easily removed by simply rubbing with the finger - and if need be a cocktail stick for very small areas.

Admire your stamina Max. Keep going.

[K4KittyCrew]

Max said ....

Tonight's rather tedious task is masking the glass work.

Ok Max, me attempting that with a 1:72 scale would be like, well .......... you have heard of the phrase ... 'like Bull in a China shop'

PS - I've got the Lanc but I can't open it yet .......... know wot I mean, nudge nudge. ( Xmas, the things you do to keep the peace ) It's all look but no touch!
I feel like a child again........... but I will endeavour to follow your advice and 'press on'.

John

[wayne]

John, building a 1/48 scale Lanc requires a delicate touch, not a 6 inch nail and a hammer

At least you have a Christmas present you want, I'll probably get the usual, nothing

If you follow Max's advice you'll end up with a cracking model, and from what I've seen of David's work he's almost as good

Wayne.

[K4KittyCrew]

Wayne said .......

If you follow Max's advice you'll end up with a cracking model, and from what I've seen of David's work he's almost as good

Your right mate, I am lucky to have, two buddies who happen to know a thing or two about modelling. That's my reward, I guess.

John